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A few weeks ago, my friend (and business partner in Royal Curiosity) Ryan and I went to the Met to see the Alexander McQueen exhibit, "Savage Beauty". It was a truly amazing experience. It not only showed his craftsmanship, creativity and style, but also really dug into what I would consider to be a thoughtful aesthetic, political, and philosophical analysis of his work. Not knowing that much about him or his work going into it, made the discovery all the more mind-blowing! There were a lot of people kind of looking at everything superficially, judging whether they would wear something or not...but his work goes so much more beyond that.
Of all the pieces in the exhibit, I was particularly fascinated by those from the 2000 collection "Eshu". Inspired by the Yoruba people of West Africa, the collection used a lot of leather, artificial and real animal hair, and elaborate metal jewelry pieces. I have always had a very strong connection to Yoruba culture, largely through its place in the Afro-Latin (Cuban, and Brazilian) diaspora. The slaves who came to Latin America were largely Yoruba, and brought that culture with them, in the Afro-Catholic Synchretic religions of Santeria, Candomble, and other cultural instituions that still are a major part of life today. I was so shocked and excited to see a reference to that in a fashion art exhibit of a European designer/artist.
I like this, because it goes beyond the obvious references to tribalism and primitivism. This shit looks like armor, and skin.
There's something very dark and witchy about these pieces too...as though you should beware, or something.Another super inestering thing about this collection is that the name, "Eshu" comes from a diety in the polytheistic Yoruba faith. Eshu is also prevalent in the Cuban and Brazilian versions of this religion. I usually describe him to people as like, the Yoruba "Loki". He is the god of mishaps, mischief, obstacles, and trickery.... but also travel, roads, crossroads, and death. I thought it was extremely interesting, that, out of all the Orixas (dieties), Alexander McQueen chose this one. However, what with all the bomb threats and protests that happened during the presentation for this collection in 2000 (mostly from PETA due to the prominent use of exotic skins), it actually seems very appropriate...kind of like flirting with danger.
A traditional Eshu ornament. I like how it looks like a spine....
Eshu beaded necklace....typically he is represented by the colors red and black. I was always told never to wear straight-up and red and black, because it was as though you were inviting him to mess with you, and give you a hard time....since he is the god of trickery and mischief, after all.
The metal pieces blew my mind....like, some kind of space age Maasi thing going on. Frightening, and other worldly...but really freakin beautiful.
The famous piece with the solid metal structure skirt. I like the rawness of the leather, juxtaposed with the architecture of the skirt. Thats whats so cool about this collection. It takes this super folkloric reference, and then throws it in a mash-up with modernity...its super heady.A lot of the details in the collection reminded me of the dress of a secret society in Cuba, called the Abakua. Originating from Nigeria, this group serves a social and cultural function, and a lot of music and dance comes from them. They have elaborate costumes during for ceremonies, and other occasions, many of which use some aesthetic concepts similar to the headdress on the top of the blog.
A drawing of traditional Abakua dress....
An Abakua mask.
An Abakua costume. Definitely see similarities in the use of hair...or hair-like/straw-like fringe. These costumes are used by dancers in ceremonies, often with a broom, to cleanse the members of the group.
Though to obviously African aesthetically, there is something about these pieces that really resonates with these folkloric traditions. I think its the symbolism...that these clothes can serve as talismans for our lives.
These comes a point when what we wear can transcend the idea of looking merely good, or cool, or hot or cute, but rather, how we actually feel...what they do to our minds and souls. These traditional garments served ultimately an empowering function....and I think Alexander Mcqueen shows how we can do that in the modern world.
